Brrrr!

The Spanish skies are grey and bleak as Winter steadily rolls in, and there's a chill in the air these days, one that seeps under your five layers of clothing, through your skin, and sinks right into your bones. It refuses to leave. It sinks its claws right into you, and sometimes no matter how long you stand under that boiling hot shower, it does everything it can to stay with you. There's no rain or snow, and most of the time there isn't any wind, it's just this frosty, biting weather that has sunk into Córdoba, into the very ground the Romans used to walk on.

Still, the Spanish people are friendly as ever. Apparently every year at about this time Spain goes absolutely wild with Christmas cheer. Strings of lights shelter the city in a glowing web of reds and whites, and bells and Nativity Scenes and even the occasional Papa Noel light up the night sky as the Spaniards take to the streets, as they are determined to get out of the house and have a coffee. They huddle under their coats and cling to their loved ones as they stroll along. They refuse to let December's bitter weather defeat them.

Across the city a strange sort of expositions begins. Individuals, churches, families, and stores set up Belenes, miniature Nativity scenes that sprawl across a huge hand painted, hand crafted Bethlehem. Some have real, working fountains, others have pyrotechnics, and all of them have dimming and brightening lights to show the passage from Night, to Dawn, to Day, and to Dusk. If no where else, the Spanish reverence of the Christmas season is here.

Everyone know Christmas is coming, and I'm not sure who's more excited, the students or the teachers. When I walk through the school the kids burst into song -- a choppy rendition of "We Wish A Merry Christmas and a Happy New You." They don't quite know the tune, but they make up for that with effort. The teachers sit in the staff room during recess, sipping small glasses of 55% Anis that burns all the way down, but with a cold like this, you need anything you can get to stay warm. I should know by know that when they give me something to drink, it won't taste good, but where's the adventure in that?

And, in three days I'm off on my great trek across Europe. A week in Paris for Christmas, a week in Amsterdam for New Years, and a week in Madrid after it all where I'll spend some quiet time wandering the parks and museums. So, although I'll be M.I.A. for a few weeks, when I return I'll have plenty of stories and plenty of pictures.

Merry Christmas, everyone, and Happy New You. ;)